Hair colouring FAQs

Why should I colour my hair?

Because, just like with make-up, even if you’re looking for a very natural effect, you apply a bit of mascara, or perhaps some powder or foundation.
Natural colours can be beautiful, but lack intensity or highlights.

Adding a subtle golden highlight automatically warms up the complexion, creating a healthy glow.
You can also colour your hair to cover grey, or to add texture to thin hair. Carefully applied and tailored to your hair type, colouring is an effective way to enhance your complexion and emphasise your eyes.

However, you need to be careful in your choices. If you have never dyed your hair before and someone suggests that you try a colour, you should be aware that this will often change the structure of your hair. The only dyes that do not change your hair structure are those without ammonia, ammonia derivatives or oxidising agents. The only dyes that will allow you to recover your natural hair when they are removed are direct colours which adhere to the hair but do not penetrate. Most oxidation hair dyes, even light ones, will leave some roots.
Be careful with “henna” dyes, since they will remain on your hair until they grow out.

How should I choose my colour?

When we have a fair complexion, we don’t use a dark foundation or powder.
This same principle is just as valid for your hair.
You should stay as close to your natural color as possible. Look at your eyebrows : their color is very close to your natural hair color.
Keep in mind that an artificial color will always seem to appear to you a bit darker than your natural color.
Natural hair color is rarely uniform or unvarying, from the roots to the ends.
When you apply make-up, you create a “look”, by accentuating your cheeks and lips, or your eyes ; for hair, this principle of contrast should also be respected.

It makes upkeep more flexible : as your hair grows, you obtain subtle effects that are chic and natural - looking.
If you want to stay close to your natural colour, choose a shade that is slightly lighter than you believe your own to be.
There are so many different shades of colour that when it comes to colouring your hair you tend to see it as darker than it actually is.

The main shades of colour are:

- Black
- Dark chestnut
- Chestnut
- Light chestnut
- Dark blond
- Blond
- Light blond
- Very light blond
- Platinum

They range from black to platinum.

Black / Dark chestnut / Chestnut: for olive complexions and dark eyes (Afro-American and Indian types, etc.).
Light chestnut / Dark blond/ Blond : for pale skins and light eyes (from light brown to blue – European type).

Light blond to Platinum Blond: for very pale skins and light eyes (Scandinavian type).

We add highlights to these colours (shades), for example:

- ash
- iridescent
- beige
- golden
- copper
- mahogany
- red

These highlights can be combined, intensified or added together.

Copper/mahogany/golden/red highlights add warm tones (such as red, mahogany, copper and chestnut) and enhance pale or olive complexions by adding warmth to the hair.
Cold highlights, such as ash, iridescent and beige are suited to complexions that tend to turn pink or blush. Over time, women often find that their hair colour takes on undesirable yellow or red tones. Cold highlights are best for preventing this yellowing effect.

My advice: to enhance your eyes, always choose a shade slightly darker than your eye colour. Women often think that lightening their hair will soften their features and make them look sexier. However, lighter hair often actually draws attention to dark eyes, circles and pale complexions.
Shades with warm highlights, such as chestnut or caramel, are perfect for enhancing freckles.
Reds are ideal for pale complexions.

Which colors are the right ones?

The right color is the one which brings out the best in a woman’s personal style and her complexion.

I like it when I hear it said about a woman that she is beautiful, not that her color is beautiful.
I do not recommend uniformly lightening your hair too much if your eyes and skin are dark.
A showy color will not necessarily make a woman more beautiful, in fact, it often make’s one forget her face.

In general, you should stay as close to your natural color as possible, and think of hair color as make-up. It is not about changing yourself - it is about making yourself look your best.
The right idea is to stay more or less 1 or 2 tones lighter or darker than your natural hair color.

Dark hair : when lightened it often turns reddish. In general, golden or caramel highlights go well with dark hair. While black, if you are not young, can harden your features.
Is blond really for you ?
If your eyes are very dark as well as your skin and hair, it is better to lighten your overall color by 1 or 2 tones maximum and then apply golden or honey highlights. I find light blond hair very inelegant with olive skin and dark eyes.

1st example : if the eyes are chestnut brown : make a base color that is 1 tone darker than the eye color. The eyes should not appear darker, but, rather, lighter.

2nd example : if the skin has a tendancy towards redness, then reddish or copperish tints should be avoided because they will accentuate the redness of the skin. On the contrary, a cool tin, something ashy, iridescent, or beige, should be chosen to counter balance the skin’s redness.
* If the hair is very fine, just a little bit of strategically placed highlights will create contrast and a feeling of volume.

It is important to flatter a woman’s natural coloring and look, and to respect, as carefully as possible, the quality of her hair.

Can anyone colour their hair?

Whether you want to color gray hairs, introduce some reflections or nuances, or add highlight, the possibilities are endless… as long as your hair is not damaged. You must first condition your hair with hair-care products (lien ligne de soin) in order to prepare it to absorb, and keep, its new color.

If you desire a radical change of color you must see a professional.

If you have any problems or have a sensitive scalp, ask your dermatologist for advice.

Which colors are best suited to women 20, 30, 40, 50 years old, or more ?

There are no generalisations.
Young women in their 20’s can be excessive and original because of the freshness of their complexion and eyes. At 30, a women should resolutely define her style. The 40 year old woman should do everything possible to soften and add sex appeal to her look. At 50, a woman should do her maximum to seem younger, to have shiny, well cared for hair. She should also be careful about keeping her complexion and style from becoming dull or boring.



Should I lighten my hair as I get older?

You can lighten your hair when you are 35 years old. But be careful as you approach 50 - your color should sometimes be darkened so as not to be too light.
As women get older, they often think that becoming blonde will make them more sexy.


By constantly lightening your hair, your complexion and look will become lacklustre and dull.

However, blonde actually tends to emphasise dark circles under the eyes. Caramel, subtle copper and golden shades create a healthy glow and are very sensual.
It is true that blonde shades make it easier to maintain grey roots. In this case, the ideal solution is to apply subtle highlights around the face and parting on top of a slightly darker base.

What should I do before my hair coloration ?

You must prepare your hair prior to its being colored by applying a deep conditioner like “lavender oil” (lien fiche e-boutique) the night before you color it. Apply the lavender oil on your hair, on ends and on the delicate hair along your hairline.
The lavender oil is exceptional because it restores the natural lipidic film that protects each strand of hair without altering the artificial color pigments.
Its combination of different oils (lavender, wheat germ, olive, and palm oils) restores your hair’s elasticity, and rejuvenates your scalp thanks to the vitamin E it contains 10%).

Your hair will be able to absorb the color better and therefore the result will be better. Color should be applied to well cut hair so that the effects created won’t be lost with the first few snips of the scissors. Furthermore, with a new cut you will perhaps want to try something new.


Before consulting with a professional, cut a magazine page showing the color of your dreams, and then, take this with you to your colorist in order to avoid any misunderstanding.

My hair color is too uniform. It looks like a helmet !

At your hair stylist’s, ask to have some of your ends “destroyed” with a decolorizing product (it is like subtly highlighting your hair by one tone lighter). A natural result is guaranteed. At home, even if you use a coloring shampoo, use a decolorizing product, to make 2 or 3 highlights.

I am starting to find my first grey hairs, what should I do?

If you like your natural colour and simply want to hide your first grey hairs, choose a very gentle colour (with no ammonia and in matching tones), that does not completely cover grey hair.
Always opt for one shade lighter than you believe your own to be and apply it only to your grey hair, a bit like coloured highlights.
You can also place some dye on the teeth of a medium-tooth comb and then comb it through your grey hair to apply the product very naturally. This will allow you to maintain as much of your natural colour as possible.
Adding a few highlights to grey hairs will not cover them but it will help to hide them. You can choose chestnut, caramel or blonde highlights.


The nutritive masks of the shade variation care line offer you an easy coloring range that could be adapted to different uses with really natural results to suit every type of hair color.
The 3 shades : CHIC RED, WARM CHESTNUT and ASH BROWN transform early gray hairs into highlights.

If you want to change your base colour and completely cover grey hair, choose a dye with greater coverage of grey hair and always follow the “lighter shade” rule.

My hair colour changes over time!

The natural oxidation effect means, whether dark or light, dyed hair often tends to turn red.
The best trick to stop your color from changing or fading is to treat and condition your hair with products that are made specifically for color treated hair. A product like wheat germ shampoo, for instance, will seal the artificial pigments in and “fix” your hair’s shine.

Apply a gentle colour (with very few oxidising agents) such as a colour rinse or a toner: with a cold highlight like ash or beige to offset the red effect.

The greater the difference between your dyed colour and your natural colour, the less it will last over time.

Before coloration, it is essential to deeply condition your hair. The night before your coloration, apply the lavender oil, thoroughly throughout your hair in order to restore your hair’s capillary fiber, and to prepare your hair to receive color.

During colouring: choose a gentle colorant, if possible without too much ammonia and with lots of conditioning agents.

After coloration, condition your hair with a treatment that will seal your hair’s cuticles and set the color. For example : lavender oil on the ends of your hair before shampooing with wheat germ shampoo (to preserve the shine and richness of your colored hair), or antioxydant cleansing milk (for highlighted hair).At least once a week you should deeply condition your hair with a specially made moisturizing treatment, lemon cleansing cream after lavender oil.

 

I have highlights, which care do you recommend me?

The week before your highlights , make a deep care : apply the lavender oil on the lengths and ends, then directly apply the lemon cleansing cream without rinsing the lavender oil.

During the highlights, apply the lavender oil on the lengths and ends. Comb to spread the oil. You can then apply your highlighting product starting from the roots. The oil will not prevent the product penetration; on the contrary it will protect the hair.

After the highlights, use the clarifying shampoo to remove all residual bleaching products to "descale" hair, or the antioxydant cleansing milk with 4 oils and blueberry as a daily use for your highlights, followed by the antioxydant conditioner with 4 oils and blueberry.

Can I swim after coloring my hair?

To swim in the ocean or swimming pool on the same day you colored your hair would be a bit harsh. Sea water tends to dry  hair, and the chlorine in swimming pool water changes blonde hair to khaki green.

It is very important to protect your hair, and, of course, your scalp as well, anytime you expose yourself to the sun or sea, with products made specifically for protection. For the swimming pool, while not very glamorous, a bit of lavender oil on your hair, and a swimming cap for protection, works very well.

 

 

Why do we need an acidic shampoo?

Coloring products are alkaline, therefore it’s enough to open the cuticles of your hair in order to add or eliminate natural pigments.

The color must then  be set by sealing the cuticles, which is why the pH level of shampoos and conditioners for colored hair of Christophe Robin is highly acidic. Coloring your hair should not render it porous. If that’s the case, then you have subjected your hair to too many chemical processes, probably, also, to a color too different from your natural color and, have eiher not conditioned your hair, or not conditioned it enough.

Rincing with lemon juice, thanks to its acid pH level which seals your hair’s cuticles, will make your hair shine. Just use a few drops, and only on your hair’s length, not on your scalp -  it doesn’t need the extra acidity.

Because coloured hair tends to turn red. Over time, the pigments fade to reveal the lightening base (oxidation). To prevent this undesirable effect, as well as using treatment products designed for your colour, choose a dye with as few oxidising agents as possible to add a cold highlight to offset the red tones.

 

Why is our hair care line formulated without silicone?

Instant conditioners often contains silicone to have a conditioning action.
Silicone makes the hair heavy (even greasy the next day), it does not care for the hair and therefore weakens it over the long term.
Today my hair-care line is silicone-free.
The antioxydant cleansing milk and the antioxydant instant conditioner can be daily used as they are formulated with no SLS.
This ultra-mild cleanser composed with a new generation of surfactants enables to daily treat your hair without any chemical aggression.These new surfactants allow a high concentration of components for a more effective care.

 

What are the most frequent errors?

- Not conditioning and treating your hair (like your skin). How can you expect to have beautifully colored hair if it is damaged ?
- not working with the hair you have ; and asking for radical changes.
- Thinking that your hair is darker than it actually is.

Are there colors that are better suited to frizzy hair ?

Yes, because of its curls, frizzy hair does not reflect light in the same way straight hair does. Delicate, light highlights on curly hair have a tendancy to make it look dull and rather frothy. In this case, it is preferable to make thin, delicate highlights at the roots, and more pronounced ones at the ends

 

A natural chestnut shade can often appear dull. How can I brighten it up? How can I brighten my colour very naturally?

You can liven it up either by using a tone shampoo with shimmering highlights (shade variation care), which would remain discreet even with new growth, or, alternatively, by placing a few honey or caramel streaks near the face, in order to render it more luminous.
Be careful, the first highlights look very natural but over time we tend to apply far too many. Too many highlights can turn your hair a flat blonde colour.

 

Is it possible to restore my natural colour?

Technically, yes, but it’s rarely flattering. In effect, grey hairs soften the face, and when you try to recreate the same brown or dark chestnut hair color you had when you were 20 years old, it actually hardens the lines in.

The only solution is to wait for your hair to grow again.
If there are no grey hairs, a professional could “strip” the colour and then dye your hair as close as possible to your natural colour.

 

Are streaks the exclusive reserve of blondes ?

Not at all. If light, golden, and iridescent streaks go well with blonde hair, then honey and caramel streaks match well with chestnuts, and copper-colored and mahogany streaks with brown.

 

Can I do different color streaks?

The ideal is to have one base color, and one streak color, more or less pronounced, from the ends to the roots. You could eventually add a third color. Beyond that, there is no pint because the end result would look confused and lack contrast.

 

Is there any way to darken hair that has too many highlights in it?

You have to gently put right your color with streaks that are the same tint as your natural color. If you feel capable of doing so yourself, you can do it at home, otherwise, go to your hair salon. Unfortunately, dark streaks are rarely stable over time. The best solution is to leave longer periods between highlighting (and for a few months have far less separation and highlights) to once again achieve the contrast of the natural base.

Ammonia and silicone free, the shade variation care range allows you to have personalized color results, with really natural results, while reducing the frequency of actual colouring sessions

 

What do plant-based dyes consist of?

Only henna dyes are completely natural, but please note that these are indelible and are not compatible with classic oxidation dyes. You will need to wait until your colour has completely grown out before you can colour your hair again. You can use them as light toners to emphasise golden or copper highlights (leave them to work for a very short time, around 5 minutes), but they must not be used instead of a classic dye.
Beware of “natural” dyes that still contain ammonia or chemicals…
Blonde shades can turn red if the bleaching product was not strong enough or if your natural base is not suitable for blonde.
There are also some natural mild dyes which add highlights (always warm) and which do not cover grey hair very attractively (harsh shade) these must always be mixed with hot water.


 

Do some women have ideas that are not really feasible ?

I refuse to do a color which will be difficult to manage with time : either, because the hair will be damaged, or because it would not be beautiful for the woman.

Also , when I have a demanding color change to make, I take my time, because, sometimes, several days between each application are necessary. Women, in terms of color, need to be educated because often  they think they can go from black to blonde easily.

 

Do you think that a woman’s choice of color reflects her character as well ?

Blonde and red are colors that women regard as being more sensual and more sexual. Nevertheless, certain blondes are more icy and distant. Brown is more for those women who assert and affirm their personality. But 80 % of women prefer to be lighter, even if, in general, their eyes appear darker, and their skin more marked.


 

Do you think the fascination for blonde hair will continue? In terms of hair, which woman do you regard as a true icon?

Blonde is a color which continues to fascinate, and I don’t think that will be stopping anytime soon. Marilyn Monroe, and Catherine Deneuve are blonde icons and Rita Hayworth the one for the red heads. It is rare for a client to ask to have her hair darkened ; she nearly always want to try a lighter nuance-even if, sometimes, darker would suit her better.
Whether sizzling or cold, the fascination for blonde hair is based on its sensual aspect and woman as an object.

Just 2% of the population is naturally blonde and this is also the most frequently requested colour in salons. Blonde is continuously coming into and going out of fashion.

I like blonde hair, provided that is suits the woman’s complexion. It would look out of place on someone with olive skin and dark eyes. These women should opt for copper-red shades to create sensuality and sex appeal! Rita Hayworth is the iconic redhead.